HEADS turn as my ride pulls up outside the hotel. Even the new 4x4s and convertibles don't stand a chance as the regal Ambassador, India's most iconic car, glides to a halt. Oozing refinement, this is a car that has been built in the country for more than 60 years yet still has the wow factor. What better way in which to explore this mighty Indian metropolis? Joined by guide Kapil and driver Manoj, we head first to the quieter and more sedate New Delhi, established by the British in 1911 and the country's capital.

Ambassadors are a common sight on the city's streets: dented and rusting versions painted black and yellow now act as taxis while spotlessly white models are still the preferred mode of transport for statesmen trying to make a statement.

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Today, Delhi's streets are choked with five million cars and countless additions: cows and donkeys, scooters, bikes and tuk-tuks (open-sided motorised rickshaws) that zip about frenziedly. The roads are wide but always busy, Kapil tells me.

A soundtrack of beeping horns plays continuously. "Everyone is so excited about Formula One coming to India," he adds, as we pass Gandhi Smriti, the house-turned-museum where Mahatma Gandhi spent his final days in 1948.

Buddh International Circuit in Noida, on Delhi's periphery. Lady Gaga, who flew in last week, will add some glitz to the proceedings by joining Sebastian Vettel, Lewis Hamilton and co for the after-race party, where she will perform. Judging by the fast and furious style of driving, Formula One and Delhi go hand-in-hand: a match made in motoring heaven.

We swerve around a corner to see the smooth sand-coloured blocks of India Gate, a 140ft arch built in tribute to the war dead standing commandingly at the heart of an enormous roundabout. "The largest roundabout in the world," Kapil says proudly.

Seven lanes of traffic flow around it, though that is often stretched to double figures as cars zone in on any available space. The day after my visit 60,000 people cram into the surrounding parkland to catch a glimpse of the Red Bull Formula One team completing a demonstration circuit around the landmark.

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AT THE other end of the ruler-straight Rajpath, India's answer to the Royal Mile, is the official residence of the country's president. "My chest swells with pride whenever I drive along here," says Kapil. "It is the most beautiful part of Delhi." Imposing wrought-iron gates decorated with elephant statues guard the 340-room stately home (bigger than Buckingham Palace). In its vast landscaped gardens, roses and bougainvillea grow around waterways and fountains arranged to resemble a blossoming lotus.

Later we travel east and stroll the grounds of Humayun's Tomb, believed by many to be the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. The eye-catching dome and symmetrical towers bear more than a slight resemblance to India's renowned monument 120 miles away in Agra. Even the Obamas, who visited during their state visit last November, were impressed.

The base for my stay is the classic and impossibly refined Taj Mahal Hotel in the heart of New Delhi. From the windows of my grand room on the ninth floor, I look out as dusk embraces the city's vast and surprisingly lush landscape. That night I dine at Varq, the hotel's fine-dining restaurant overlooking the gardens.

It specialises in traditional dishes with a modern makeover masterminded by chef Hemant Oberoi. I feast on black cod marinated in chillies with a passion fruit reduction followed by masala tea creme brulee.

Another day, another mode of transport. This time we are bound for Old Delhi, a tangled web of densely crowded streets dating from the 17th century. We leave the comfort of the Ambassador behind in favour of something a little more rugged, one of Delhi's 300,000 tuk-tuks. The streets are a blur of colour as our Formula One wannabe driver expertly weaves in and out of the chaotic traffic bound for the Red Fort. Drivers shout at one another, cows trot by unfazed and fiery spices mingle with the smell of burning incense.

Our journey takes us to the banks of the sacred Yamuna River where groups of women are washing laundry. We hop out of our tuk-tuk near Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi's shopping centre, and enter the deep maze of back streets in search of food. Most visitors give street food a wide berth to avoid a bout of "Delhi belly" but Kapil is quick to reassure me. "I know where the food is good and safe," he says leading me to a busy samosa stand serving delicious spicy vegetable morsels.

Eventually we reach the Red Fort, built in 1638 by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. Within its looming walls, all is still. Listening hard, I can hear the distant but unmistakable sounds of the city beyond: screeching brakes, a medley of car horns and countless engines.

Formula One is going to feel at home in Delhi.

GETTING THERE

Travelbag (0871 703 4240/travelbag.co.uk) offers five nights at the five-star Taj Mahal Hotel from £1,589pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes return flights from Heathrow to Delhi with Virgin Atlantic. TransIndus (020 8566 3739/transindus.com) can arrange tailor-made city tours from £75pp (min two people). Indian Tourist Board: 020 7437 3677/incredibleindia.org