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Germany: Trading places


Colourful decorations, toys and gifts draw in visitors to a market stall in Freiburg, Germany
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Colourful decorations, toys and gifts draw in visitors to a market stall in Freiburg, Germany
Colourful decorations, toys and gifts draw in visitors to a market stall in Freiburg, Germany
Germany has the Yuletide spirit all wrapped up with its world famous Christmas markets says FRANCESCA PACKER

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FREIBURG

Freiburg, located in the south-west of the Black Forest, looks even more breathtakingly beautiful when its pine forests are blanketed in snow. Try traditional gluhwein (similar to mulled wine but with extra spices) and bratwurst, German sausage served plain, with cheese or, for the more adventurous, with curry sauce. Best buys are hand-painted mugs.


The funfair, illuminated at night, is particularly magical with its old-style merry-go-round providing an atmospheric backdrop to the Gothic cathedral, the Freiburg Minster, in the Old Town.


HEIDELBERG

North of Freiburg is Heidelberg, set in the Neckar river valley. The city boasts five huge squares dedicated to festive markets. If you are after unique gifts this is the place to find them, especially hand-crafted wooden toys.


There is a Winter Wonderland feel particularly in the historic Old Town which is crowned by the imposing Heidelberg Castle. Visit its beautiful gardens with their fantastic views across the Rhine. Inside the castle, you can view the world's largest wine cask, built in 1751, which at one time served some 5,000 guests.


The main street, Hauptstrasse, is also the place to find great gifts such as lebk¼chen - gingerbread biscuits which vary in taste between the regions. Most are sweetly glazed and have spicy aromas. Christmas stollen is another popular homemade product. Traditionally baked in German households during the festive season, the main ingredients are butter, raisins, flour, yeast, lemon and orange peel, almonds and, in some regions, red wine.


WIESBADEN

Wiesbaden, just outside Frankfurt, is one of the oldest spa towns in Europe. The spa assembly rooms and casino make up the main landmarks. The Twinkling Star Christmas Market is accessed via four gates decorated with the golden lilies that feature in the civic coat of arms and festoon the focal point of the square; the huge, beautifully-lit Christmas tree.


There are more than 100 stalls with plenty to choose from such as silver jewellery, paper lanterns and hand-crafted wooden reindeer with the added personalised touch of nameengraving for children. There are also lovely hand-made tree decorations and colourful nutcracker soldier figurines, the most sought-after gift. Children can keep occupied on the carousel and toy train ride.


GETTING THERE

Dertour (020 7290 1111/dertour.co.uk) offers a two-night Christmas Markets tour of Freiburg, Heidelberg and Wiesbaden from £439 pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes one night at Central Hotel, Freiburg, and one night at the HIP Hotel, Heidelberg, return flights from Gatwick to Basel and rail transfers between destinations.


NUREMBERG

In the market square of the atmospheric old quarter an angel suddenly appears from on high, complete with golden gown, crown and tresses. She turns out to be a little girl, the so-called Christmas Angel. Each year on the Friday before the first Advent Sunday a girl officially opens the festive market known as the "little town of wood and cloth".


There are more than 200 red and white stalls packed with quality decorations, trinkets, toys and little figures made from prunes. Warm yourself with some gluhwein served in a souvenir mug before taking a walking tour of the old town to see the medieval castle, churches, fountains and art (the city was home to Germany's greatest Renaissance painter Albrecht Durer).


A €21 Nuremberg Card gives entry to the city's museums on two consecutive days as well as free public transport and 10 per cent off in some shops, such as the Craftsmen's Courtyard nestled behind the city walls.


Here you can see half-timbered workshops where stained glass, leather, pewter goods, pottery and delicious gingerbread are made.


Nuremberg is also notorious for its murky war past. Learn about Hitler's tyranny at the Documentation Centre on the site of the Nazi Party Rally Grounds. There is also the year-old Nuremberg Trials Memorial.


The Nuremberg of today, however, offers much more festive cheer. With Air Berlin flights taking less than two hours from Gatwick, it is perfect for a short getaway.

GETTING THERE

Dertour (as before) offers three nights at Le Meridien Grand Hotel from £569pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Nuremberg with Air Berlin (airberlin.com). For December, 2011 departures. German National Tourist Office: germany.travel

   

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