Lanzarote isn’t just about busy resorts – stay in a yurt for a charming holiday to remember

Glamping has become a huge trend – with even the TOWIE lot joining in on their trip to Epping Forest (complete with Joey Essex’s orange Uggs) last series.

And you don’t need to wait until next summer. Eco holiday villages with tipis, yurts and luxury caravans are popping up across Europe and further afield.

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Lanzarote is a great option for its year-round sunshine, easy-to-navigate landscape – and beautiful beaches that range from pure white to black!

Just a four-hour flight away, it’s perfect for a quick getaway.

 Former Emmerdale star Roxanne Pallett headed there last month to celebrate landing a role in BBC1’s Waterloo Road – soaking up the  sunshine before filming begins.


People weren’t jealous when we told them we were staying in a yurt. “Isn’t that just a big tent?” they scoffed.

More fool them. Our “big tent” was bigger than most hotel rooms, with three sleeping areas (two doubles and one twin) separated by silky drapes, the beds all adorned with embroidered cushions, fitting in with the Far-Eastern style of décor.

But the outside area was the real attraction – a covered lounge and fully equipped kitchen, huge day bed, upstairs eating area with views over the sea, and even a bath! It makes living indoors seem pretty dull.

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We were staying in the Eco Yurt Royale at Finca de Arrieta, home of family-run Lanzarote Retreats, in the quieter north of the island.


It would be a waste not to spend at least one full day lounging around your yurt, especially if you’re lucky enough to be staying in the Royale. Just follow the sun around from the loungers to the day bed. Or you could walk the ten minutes down a rough path to the golden beach, where locals line up to jump off the pier.

The Finca is designed for pottering. In the morning you can collect fresh eggs from the hen house, there’s a well-stocked honesty shop – and even a wine rack in the yurt, stocked with local and Spanish varieties.

The shared pool next to the bar area is beautifully designed, the turquoise colour of the water really popping out against the white sloping sides. We loved going for a swim at dusk, surrounded by silky-soft water, warm air – and silence.

For more sociable relaxation, owners Tila and Michelle organise a day trip to nearby island Graciosa – the smallest of the Canaries, with unspoilt alabaster beaches.
After sunbathing and snorkelling, we had a huge traditional lunch of seafood soup, fish and salty Canarian potatoes.

We also explored the south of the island with a catamaran trip to Papagayo. Cruising out of pretty Puerto Calero, Champagne cocktail in hand, felt blissfully peaceful.

You can’t travel far in Lanzarote without seeing a piece of Cesar Manrique’s legacy. It’s the legendary artist’s influence that has kept the island to low-rise, whitewashed buildings.

There are sculptures at many roundabouts and one of the island’s main attractions is his Jameos del Agua or “Blue Lagoon”.

A 20-minute drive through the volcanoes will take you to his Mirador del Rio – and magnificent views over Graciosa. You can take a vertiginous walk around the front of this Bond villain-style lair, or sip a cup of coffee behind the glass (set into the cliff face). 

Further south, don’t miss Manrique’s house. We loved walking through the five lower rooms, each created in a volcanic bubble and colour themed – the ultimate party pad! 

We stocked up on pasta, sauces and meat for the barbeque – plus some very cheap but decent wines and beer. You can also pre-order a grocery box of local produce, so fresh fruit and veg, pasta sauces, bread, cheese and wine will be waiting for you at your yurt.

But you have to eat out to experience the best in Canarian food. Canarian tapas are different to mainland Spain – and very salty. Tiny green peppers, salted and fried, and potatoes cooked in sea salt sit on menus alongside the usual calamari and bread comes with addictive spicy green and red sauces.

For a treat, El Amanecer in Arrieta village serves fresh fish and traditional Canarian dishes. Hold out for a table on the terrace, overlooking the sea.

We flew from Gatwick South to Lanzarote with Monarch (monarch.co.uk). The airline also flies from Birmingham, Luton and Manchester, with prices from £69.99 one-way.

Start your holiday in style by checking into the No.1 Traveller (no1traveller.com) lounge in Gatwick South. For £25 per adult and £12.50 per child, you can enjoy a meal, wine, beer and soft drinks and help yourself to the buffet.

A week with Lanzarote Retreats (lanzaroteretreats.com) at Finca de Arrieta starts at £445 for the Water Tower, sleeping two, to £1,336 for the Eco Yurt Royale, sleeping six. The Royale includes airport transfers and use of a Toyota Hybrid Prius.

You can hire a car from £78 per week with Holiday Autos (holidayautos.co.uk; 0871 472 5229), collecting at Arrecife airport.

A morning cruise to Papagayo with Catlanza (catlanza.com) costs around £60 (adults only, with lunch, drinks and jet ski ride).


Go for pretty, casual clothes – you’ll probably be hanging out at your palatial yurt most of the time anyway!

Pumps or trainers are useful on the rough terrain – and iPod speakers or a DAB radio is a must for some tunes in the evening.