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Johannesburg to Mozambique: Hitting the African trail


ADVENTURE: The African experience includes excitement onshore and in the water
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ADVENTURE: The African experience includes excitement onshore and in the water
ADVENTURE: The African experience includes excitement onshore and in the water
Taking a road trip is the ideal way to experience the natural wildlife and local culture, says JINI REDDY

I'VE ventured to many an off-beat destination but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think twice about joining an overland trip from South Africa's Johannesburg to Tofo in Mozambique.

I've always associated overland adventures with young people on gap years, so a number of questions were going through my mind. Will my companions be noisy stereotypes? Will anyone help me put up my tent? Will I be the eldest there?

I needn't have worried.

The group, a mixture of Australians, New Zealanders, Americans and Norwegians, is a delightful surprise.

Ages range from 20-49 and our experiences are just as varied.

There's a midwife, a pharmacist, a surgeon and two ex-soldiers who've just finished a tour of Afghanistan.

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We're transported in a bright orange truck that is conspicuous but comfortable.

It's cold camping in June with the seasons reversed in the southern hemisphere but on every site the showers are piping hot.

We're accompanied by trip leader Allen, driver Dave and cook Benson, who whips up impressive meals.

I tucked into chilli con carne, pumpkin stuffed with melted cheese and puddings galore.

If one thing's certain it's that in times of recession, overland trips are a great way to squeeze lots of destinations into one holiday.

After just four days I've managed to soak up the staggering views of South Africa's Blyde River Canyon and experienced walking safaris in the Kruger National Park, where my heart fluttered as I edged closer to a herd of rhino.

Now we're in Swaziland, a tiny kingdom that is wedged between South Africa and Mozambique.

Though poor it is rich in natural beauty, relaxed and friendly.

Our base is the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, the oldest of Swaziland's conservation areas.

It is a gem, a poetic blend of ochre soil, granite peaks and magnificent trees, such as the aptly named Flamboyant with fiery-red blooms.

I've abandoned my tent for a "Beehive", a grass-domed traditional hut.

It may be simple but has an ensuite bathroom and a welcome kettle for tea and coffee.

Well worth the £80 supplement.

Here visitors can roam as freely as the game on some of the trails.

There are many ways to explore, including cycling, bird-watching and guided walks.

Most opt for an hour's horseriding.Heading out in single file we make our way round a lake in which two hippos are lazing and a croc lies in wait for a tasty impala.

A couple of us break off for a trot and canter.

It's bliss and doesn't feel like a budget trip at all.

There's also an uncontrived visit to a local village.

The charming lady chief, 78-year-old Inkhosikati, gives us a hearty welcome and lessons in Swazi culture.

We dance and sing with heroic clumsiness and the orphans in her charge politely stifle giggles.

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It's a wrench to leave but after an overnight stay in the capital of Mozambique, Maputo, we head north to Tofo, a laid-back haven known for its deserted white sand beaches and marine life including a large whale-shark population.

We're staying at Bamboozi Beach Lodge.

More backpacker haunt than holiday resort, but I adore my ocean-facing bungalow.

The lodge is home to Liquid Adventures, a dive and watersport centre.

Choppy waters, alas, mean a planned sea-kayaking excursion is swapped for a jaunt on a dhow to the remote Ilha de Inhambane, an hour from the coast.

When we arrive it feels splendidly Robinson Crusoe-esque and I can't get enough of the silky sands.

The next morning I'm thrown out of my comfort zone.

I'm not a strong swimmer so it's with some trepidation I head for an Ocean Safari to snorkel alongside whale sharks and dolphins.

Our boat has to be launched, which means running alongside it through strong waves before hurling myself onboard.

Trust me, it's not for the faint-hearted.

I cling on as we bounce across the rising swells.

There are soon shrieks of delight: the shadow of a whale shark has been spotted.

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Later, over a beer at Dino's Beach Bar, this fleeting sighting becomes the source of many a satisfied traveller's tall tale.

It's then that I realise that overlanding is the prosecco of travelling.

It may not be as expensive as champagne but you can still get a great buzz from it.

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THE KNOWLEDGE

Imaginative Traveller (0845 564 7107/www.imaginative-traveller.com) offers an 11-day Road To Mozambique tour from £1,570pp (two sharing), half board, plus local payment of US$250.

Kruger National Park MOZAMBIQUE Price includes return flights from Heathrow to Johannesburg, accommodtion, most meals, transport and guide.

Blyde River Canyon Maputo Maputo Tofo Tofo Various departures February to June 2012.

Johannesburg Johannesburg 200 0 miles South African Tourism: 0870 155 0044/www.southafrica.net Swaziland Tourist Board: 0115 972 7250/ www.welcometoswaziland.com Mozambique Tourism: 0207 388 5699/ www.mozambiquetourism.co.za

   

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