WHY GO:

As an Islamic sultanate rich in oil, Brunei is commonly mistaken for being in the Middle East. It’s actually on the exotic Asian island of Borneo and boasts far more than just black gold.

The country has a tropical, wildlife-packed jungle, interesting architecture, atmospheric old villages, delicious (and often spicy) Malaysian-style cuisine and friendly people, many of whom speak fluent English as well as Malay, the official language.

Brunei was a British protectorate from 1888 to 1984 and still bears influences from its old master (driving is on the left), yet religion holds even greater sway.

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The present sultan, who studied at Sandhurst, is part of a dynasty that claims direct descent from the Prophet Mohammed.

On his watch, Friday prayers are near-sacrosanct, aspects of Sharia law are in force and alcohol is banned (though foreigners can bring 12 cans of beer and two bottles of wine or spirits through customs for private use).

However, black burkas are virtually nowhere to be seen, Bruneian women preferring Western-style clothes and colourful Malay outfits.

DON’T MISS:

Walking along the boardwalks of the colourful wooden houses on stilts at the largest floating river village in the world, Kampong Ayer, in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan.

The city is renowned for its beautiful mosques, including the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin mosque with its gold dome and Italian marble interior.

Bandar is the launchpad for some scenic nature trips, includinga water taxi tour that zips through the jungle-fringed waterways on the city’s outskirts.

Watch out for macaques and proboscis monkeys and crocodiles sunbathing amid the mangroves.

Travel by motorboat from Bandar to Temburong, the smaller eastern slice of Brunei, which is cut off from its western part by the Malaysian state of Sarawak.

Temburong’s most enchanting abode is Ulu Ulu National Park Resort, a rainforest hideaway where you can relax to the sounds of chirping cicadas, or indulge in jungle-based adventures.

Book a room at the sumptuous 523-room Empire in Bandar with its riot of Italian marble, gildedcolumns and chandeliers. It is a big favourite of the Sultan, his polo-playing friend Prince Charles and Bill Clinton. Rooms from £150 a night.

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● GETTING THERE

Royal Brunei Airlines (020 7584 6660/bruneiair.com/uk) offers return flights from Heathrow to Brunei via Dubai from £670 or on to Melbourne from £730. The airline offers one night at the Empire Hotel & Country Club and one night at Ulu Ulu National Park Resort Hotel from £317pp (two sharing).

Price includes transfers, some meals and tours. Brunei Tourism: bruneitourism.travel