The county's a pasty master, writes GARY NICKS

CROSSING the mighty Tamar Bridge, visitors are greeted by a huge sign proudly announcing: “Welcome to Cornwall.”

But I’m proposing it should be torn down and replaced with something far more appropriate. Like the following: “Beware...entering this county can lead to a serious addiction to pasties!

”My family and I enjoyed a brilliant holiday exploring Cornwall’s beautiful coast- line, with its lovely fishing ports, sandy beaches and endless tourist attractions.

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No-one, however, warned us about the nagging crav- ings we would develop for the humble Cornish pasty.

Wherever you go you can’t escape the savoury aroma of these devilishly deli- cious treats being baked.

They even made them shark-shaped when a Great White was spotted off the coast a while back.

We headed for the West Country where more Brits than ever are opting to hol- iday to save money on self- catering “staycations”.

After browsing cottages 4you’s website, which has 10,000 properties across the UK to suit all budgets, we opted for Pen An Vre, a cracking little three-bed- room whitewashed house overlooking St Austell Bay.

It served as a great base and with its own wood- burner, it’s suitable to staythere all-year round. And opening up the curtains each morning to reveal panoramic views across the bay was a bonus.

A must-see for us was the world-famous Eden Project, which looks like giant lunar golfballs.

Walking into the cavern- ous biodomes is like enter- ing a whole new world.

One of the domes houses a living and breathing rain- forest, complete with sticky humidity, while the other features a Mediterranean zone capturing the south- ern European climate.

Dug out of old clay pits near St Austell, they make a stunning addition to the Cornish landscape rising high into the sky out of rolling hillsides.

The domes are packed with exotic plants and trees from faraway lands and wespent a whole day there in awe of the sheer size.

You learn loads about the environment and the kids (and us grown-ups as well) got up to all sorts of mischief, like building our own eco-dens out of ropes and wooden poles.

Eden also hosts concerts, has plenty of places to eat and its night-time Laby- rinth circus performances proved hugely popular.

Down the road is the charming harbour town of Fowey, where writer Daphne du Maurier penned novels including Rebecca.

It’s home to trendy art galleries, craft shops, cafés and restaurants, and hours slipped by watching boats gliding along the beautiful estuary.

The port is designated anArea of Outstanding Natu- ral Beauty and has around 7,000 visiting yachts over the summer season.

Like all Cornish tourist spots, it’s great for a pint, some fish and chips or a cream tea (er and, of course, a darn good pasty).

For £3.50 on the car ferry, we crossed the River Fowey and drove on to Polperro, an ancient 13th century fishing village wedged into the bottom of a valley.

Coach-loads of tourists walk its meandering streets and the old fishermen’s cot- tages are so tightly packed, it’s amazing folk still live so crammed in together.

Naturally, lovely little Polperro was a major pasty mecca, so I just couldn’t resist another one.

Along with the pasty cravings, I developed another almost daily habit: tuckinginto St Austell Brewery’s fantastic beers.

Their range of ales is sold practically everywhere as the brewery has a near- monopoly on local pubs.

And so light and golden are they that many lager drinkers will be converted on a warm summer’s day.

If you like welcoming pubs run by friendly land- lords, our favourite was the Polgooth Inn, a smashing village boozer near St Austell, where we had fresh mussels and supped pints of beer called Proper Job.

One of Cornwall’s charms has to be its people, wheth- er it’s the ruddy-cheeked happy-go-lucky locals, bearded fishermen telling their tales or the surfer hippie-types.

They all seem to be bless- ed with the same chilled- out karma unique to this ancient county famed for its druids and legends like King Arthur.

Another treasure was the enchanting Lost Gardens of Heligan.

This “Sleeping Beauty”after decades of decay and roaming bramble and ivy was rediscovered in 1990 and brought back to life, and there’s 200 acres to roam around.

Go to Charlestown and see 18th century tallships and the shipwreck museum, while a trip to Lostwithiel lets you step back in time to what was once Cornwall’s capital.

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Mevagissey has a busy working harbour where you can hire boats and go on fishing trips.

It’s unspoilt too, with narrow alleyways and old mariner pubs to enjoy.

And, of course, there are Cornwall’s beaches and hidden smugglers’ coves.

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Gorran Haven was a big pull with the bucket and spade brigade and there are miles of open sand at Watergate Bay where you can dine at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant.

Further afield, head for Penzance, St Ives, Rock, Padstow, Looe and Newquay.

We loved Cornwall. But it’s going to take years to shift these pasty cravings.

 

FACT BOX

A SEVEN-night stay at the Pen An Vre cottage in St Austell self-catering, which sleeps five, starts from £330.

To book visit cottages4you.co.uk or call 0845 268 1560.

They have 10,000 amazing properties all around the UK and with prices to suit all budgets.

Entry to the Eden Project costs £22 for adults, £8.50 for children aged 16 to five, and is free for under 4s.

It is also cheaper if you book online in advance. See edenproject.com

Entry to the Lost Gardens of Heligan costs £10 for adults and £27 for a family ticket. See heligan.com.