If ever there was a time you didn’t want crippling cramp in your legs it’s when you’re all at sea - literally - almost half a mile from the nearest land and up to your neck in the ocean, writes NEIL HYDE

It’s only an idle thought but at the wrong side of 60 such things dart uninvited into your mind to make you think “what if...”

Striding out ahead of me is my young photographer carrying a weighty £5,000 worth of lenses and cameras on his head, water also lapping up to his neck. Behind me, a vast expanse of crystal clear water and above, a hot sun beating down at nearly 90 degrees.

Hmmm, yes, this is paradise.

Click here for great Maldives offers

We are heading for a picnic on the tropical and uninhabited Sunrise Island. We’ve arrived here dramatically by seaplane and speedboat – the former landing alongside a terribly tiny pontoon in the middle of the Indian Ocean.

The only mild challenge raised by our exotic picnic venue is initially a little alarming: wading into the sea for almost half an hour to get to it. Our guide reassuringly claims the water’s no deeper than waist high – but fails to mention that it is high tide!

However, dozens of brightly coloured fish are happily swimming around my feet and my concerns evaporate the moment we clamber out of the incredibly warm water and onto glorious Sunrise Island.

Suddenly everything we’ve been told about the Maldives drops into place.  Enchanting, awesome, unbelievable, idyllic…the words fail to adequately describe what we see and feel.

Our Sunrise Picnic is just one of the amazing “experiences” which make this holiday on the 5 star Kurumba,  Maldives an absolute must for anyone who enjoys the good things in life.

Those in the know have described the Indian Ocean resort as an island paradise and as we jetted out from Heathrow, leaving behind a grey, chilly London town, I hoped they were right!

Ten hours later I was ready to scribble a postcard home proclaiming “you were right.”

As we step off the aircraft at Male International Airport, within sight of the Maldives’ capital city on an adjoining island, there is a life-changing moment. What we took for granted as laid back moves to a whole new dimension - for life in the Republic is strictly on a no-hurry, no-worry basis.

We stroll just a few steps from the airport and we’re at the quayside and already experiencing the Kurumba welcome.

A powerboat – complete with air conditioning, cold towels and refreshing cold drinks - is waiting to whisk us and our bags off to the resort where they rightly say you arrive as a guest and depart as a friend.

This is a one-to-one experience where every Kurumban wants to please and wears a lovely, broad smile. There are 430 staff and fewer than 400 guests - even in the high season moths of December, January and February.

It’s not surprising then that we are made to feel very special – from the moment our personal launch ties up at the landing stage and garlands of flowers are gently draped around our necks.

As the plane makes its descent towards Male airport, you get the most incredible view of the myriad of 1,200 Maldive islands, some submerged beneath the azure blue sea but nothing prepares you for the beauty when you arrive on Kurumba. – an island dedicated to the holiday experience.

It was one of the first resorts, opened in 1972 and revamped in 2004. A cluster of 180 villas and guest apartments nestle in trees around the beach and, if your pace is brisk, you can walk the island perimeter in half an hour.

Pure white sand, a flat-calm lagoon that is clearly beckoning “come on in”, tall coconut groves and a staggering EIGHT mouth-watering restaurants await you as you venture out of your villa. 

Oh, yes, this is a destination for foodies as well as the energetic – a haven for diners and divers. A great combination for a writer of slightly portly proportion and a cameraman with an insatiable appetite for picture opportunities.

We settle ourselves in our pool villa, one of Kurumba’s most popular accommodations and marvel at the outdoor exclusivity - a private swimming pool with a powerful jacuzzi, thatched open-sided day bed, comfy sunbeds and an outdoor shower. All surrounded by a 6ft walled garden, making for total privacy and an absolute sun-trap.

I wallow in the pool and muse on whether I might get hit on the head by one of the hairy coconuts which occasionally falls from the tree tops 100ft above. Then, like clockwork, my stomach sends out a rallying call to toddle off in search of sustenance.

It comes as a pleasant surprise to discover the route to the restaurants takes us past Kurumba’s newly-created Sand Bar and I spend a soothing hour sipping G and T’s as the photographer marvels over the amazing sunsets he’s capturing.

Then it’s off to face a really difficult decision. Food choices on Kurumba are sensational but picking which restaurant to sample first induces a mouth-watering dilemma.

We opt for the open-air Hamakaze (meaning ocean winds) eatery where a very cheery chef cooks up a concoction of extremely tasty Teppan-yaki including Yellow-fin tuna, Gulf king prawns, scallops, lobster, reef fish snapper, squid, chicken and beef. I highly recommend the soy, lemon and garlic marinade but my snapper was impressed with the Teriyaki marinade.

The Kurumba team has clearly put much thought into the resort’s dining experience and listened to Tripadvisor critics who have agonised to find a fault and consider they’ve found it in the food pricing structure.

They have come up with two solutions – the all inclusive Dine Around option which I think to be the best solution if, like me, you enjoy your food – and a full-board all-inclusive deal which wraps up your food and drink needs quite neatly.   

Our later food forays took us to the splendid Ocean Grill, where you dine by candlelight on a balcony built out over the lagoon. It gets dark in the Maldives by 6.30pm so romantic dining starts early.

As you tuck into tasty tempura black tiger prawns, Negombo Sri Lankan curried crab or grilled Maldavian-style seabass, you gaze into the floodlit water below as half a dozen baby sharks, the occasional Manta sting ray and a cluster of crabs dash about, eagerly hoping for a cannibalistic treat to be tossed their way.

Feeding the fish like this is against the rules but you’ll get only the very mildest of rebukes from waiter Shahu and his ever-attentive colleagues who make dining at the Ocean Grill something you will never forget.

After a sound night’s sleep it’s time for breakfast and being a Pool Villa guest means Champagne is served  for the whole stay – whooppeee!  It’s accompanied by the most splendid array of fresh fruit.      

We are both partial to Eggs Benedict and the Kurumba version is exquisite. There is something almost heavenly about sitting in an open-air restaurant looking out onto a vista where the cloudless blue sky joins the calm blue sea at the horizon and a few boats bob by.

We indulgently sip Champagne from glasses which are recharged regularly, contemplate the most unusual looking fruit on the dish and plan our day – of doing nothing but sunbathe, snorkel and sunbathe again.

My photographer takes himself off to Kurumba’s diving school, just a few hundred yards along the beach and introduces himself as a complete novice who wants to take underwater pictures of the marine life.

Enthusiastic 41-year-old dive manager Chris, who before “finding” the Maldives was a business consultant with an extremely dry sense of humour, appreciates the challenge and within minutes both are in the water, one teaching the other how not to drown.

Three hours later, he’s amazingly gained a PADI certificate of competence and we find ourselves with 14 others on a 35ft boat, motoring out to a former prison island renowned for good diving and a plethora of things with fins.

Dive bottle on his back, face mask in place and flippers and a wet suit fitted firmly, my photographer steps overboard on the count of three and disappears beneath the surface – underwater camera in hand. Lazily, I opt for the chance to catch some rays of a different kind and enjoy the solitude of just me, the skipper and the four-year-old son of one of the dive pupils who’s a bit young for the Jules Verne adventure.

Diving is one of the highlights of a holiday in the Maldives and it is obvious why as you rock gently on the lapping water watching the excited faces of your new friends surfacing after catching sight of an underwater extravaganza. Diving and snorkeling kit is freely available for your whole visit to Kurumba.

My photographer can’t believe he’s just come nose to nose with a huge turtle, leisurely paddling around looking for afternoon tea 30 metres under the waves. Others chat animatedly about very friendly black tip reef sharks, angelic little Parrot fish, stingrays, Titan Trigger fish, oriental sweetlips and pufferfish – and the incredible looking coral reefs.

A couple of hours later and we’re back on shore and gearing up for the gastronomic experience of a lifetime. Kurumba, a must-stay location for honeymooners, has a special treat but booking in advance is a must.

As the deep-orange sun dips beneath the horizon and dusk turns to darkness, we are collected from our villa in the only motorised transport on the island, a golf buggy which whisks us off to the beach. There, at the end of a newly-built pontoon 100yards out into the lagoon is a table for two, set with crisp white linen, silver service cutlery and glasses and surrounded  - four-poster bed style - with tied back white drapes..

This has to be the most incredible dinner-date location in the Indian Ocean. We’re about to sample Sounds of the Sea dining, complete with private butler Russell who will serve up a sumptuous five course supper from a menu created for us by Moosa, the most gentle, genial host you will ever meet and whose job it is to look after the resort’s food and drinks.

Moosa’s been on Kurumba for more than 25 years and has been married three times. Not surprisingly he knows how to create a romantic restaurant rendezvous for two and clearly has pleasure in ushering us to our table which is already creaking with four different bottles of fine wines. 

Starters, mains, desserts and lots of drinks later, we soak up the splendour of Sounds of the Sea. It’s just that – water lapping gently against the stones of the pier, a mantra-ray hovering under the surface a few feet away and absolutely no other people within sight or hearing. Save, that is, for Russell who makes the occasional 100 yard pilgrimage to top up our glasses.

Then its back in the buggy to the pampered luxury of our air-conditioned villa where cold floors and cool sheets take the sweat out of the 28 degree night-time air. Yes, despite the absence of the sun we’re in the tropics and the hours of darkness are very comfortably warm.

We muse on whether the heat will encourage the mosquitos to go on night-time munching manoeuvres but suddenly remember that at 5pm every evening Kurumba is fumigated with a safe if somewhat pungent five-minute fog which sees off the little blighters.

Next day its up at 7am – the photographer’s already been up an hour to catch the 6am sunrise on camera – and just time for a quick breakfast in the main Vihamana restaurant where we have the most delicious smoked salmon and scrambled egg. The rush is on because today’s the all-day event about which I started this review.

One of Kurumba’s powerboats is ticking over gently on the pontoon ready to take us across the waves to Male airport where we are ushered into a lounge and then onto one of Trans Maldives Airways’ seaplanes. Ear plugs at the ready we take off on the sea – a bit of a surreal experience – and grab the opportunity take take a photo of Kurumba as we fly overhead on our way south over the atolls to a floating pontoon at Biyaadhoo.

This is an excursion – but don’t be put off by the thought of usual foreign holiday organised trips – this is no ordinary excursion. Operated by By Wave Pvt Ltd., we have a knowledgeable guide named Anii who helps us off the tiny plane onto the pontoon.

I stagger about a bit as, ill-advisedly, everyone else decides to gather on one side of the tipping wooden walkway and then we all clamber aboard an impressive-looking twin 200hp engined speedboat.

With a massive splash, we zip off across the glass-like water bound for one of the most extraordinary experiences I have ever had.  The speedboat slows alongside a 300 metre long deserted sandbank and then reverses into the shallows. Pure, white sand in the middle of the ocean.

I suddenly realise, with just a wee bit of worry, that we’re going to have to jump off the boat and wade onto the sandbank. Everyone else manages this fine, so I leap off too, stumble immediately and almost nose-dive into the water holding my camera aloft. I glance back and see that, unusually for a photographer - who is still aboard – he has missed the embarrassing shot of the day.

For two glorious hours we snorkel, bathe and bask in tropical sun, reflected off pure white sand. There is nothing on this remote sand spit but a washed-up tree trunk, a crane with one of the longest necks in the bird world and 12 of us humans. As we start to wilt slightly in the heat, Anii appears clasping ice-cold bottles of water and a few sun umbrellas.  Absolute bliss.

Back aboard the boat – with the same inept footwork as disembarking – we head for our freshly-barbecued fish picnic, landing at Rihiveli Island before trekking off into the sea to Sunrise Island.

Suntanned and satiated after a three hour lunch we set off back across the lagoon and rejoin the speedboat to head for a local fisherman’s island called Maafushi. By now, I am beginning to believe those who trumpet that the Maldives ARE the Eighth Wonder of the World. (You can vote to make it!)

This tropical island is like stepping back in time. In some ways it reminds me of Sark in the Channel Islands, except that the weather is incredible and with a population of 1,800, it’s much busier.

Our guide, who is clearly a character who enjoys being barracked by the locals, bizarrely takes us first to the island’s mental hospital, then proudly shows off the new power station and all of the tiny island’s five mosques. My photographer asks if the men and women who are worshipping against a wall for the fifth time that day, would mind if he took their picture.

There is no problem and we are then taken to see the locals’ homes, most of which are painted in striking colours. I ask about the paintwork and discover it’s election time on Maafushi and the voters quite literally nail their colours to the mast by painting their homes in their candidate’s chosen hue.

Maafushi was one of the Maldive islands hit by the 2004 tsunami and was devastated by a huge wall of water which destroyed homes and drowned four babies.  Our 40-year-old guide tells us he was in the bathroom when the breakfast-time big wave came but managed to get to safety after his sister shouted a warning.

The island was rebuilt thanks to the generosity of the American Red Cross. They were also given a grant of several million US dollars – but the locals claim never to have seen the results.

Kurumba was also affected by the same tsunami but only a foot of water gushed into the resort and retreated within a minute, leaving little structural damage but lots of mess to clear up. It was after that Universal Resorts carried out their refurbishment which made it the modern five-star island it now is.

After spotting a few unique knick-knacks in the souvenir shops - which seem to be a MUST on the tourist guide’s route - we are taken to the island’s equivalent of a shipyard where 12 men have toiled for four years to build a huge wooden boat. There’s still about a year’s work left – but it will be the pride of Maafushi when it’s launched.

Leaving the yard and heading for the quayside, we spy our seaplane flying in overhead to whisk us back to Male and are encouraged for the first time in a week to “hurry up.”

For amazing Maldives offers, click here

My photographer spots a local woman, clad in traditional dress and walking home after shopping and asks if she minds her photo being taken. She very shyly agrees but I manage to get a grin when I point out the industrial-sized plastic tub of yoghurt tucked under her arm. Some things are the same the world over.

Back at Kurumba, it’s time to think of food again – and another of the eight speciality restaurants. Everyone has recommended Kurumba Mahal, the local Indian. Staff at the resort say it is a favourite among the guests and boast “lovers of Indian food will be deeply impressed.” We both fancy some Northern India fare – but it’s the one night of the week it’s closed.

So we visit in turn La Cucina, the Italian venue, Al Qasr which specialises in Lebanese treats, and Ming Court, the Chinese outpost. All are very tempting but another night with the baby sharks is too much of a treat to miss and it’s back to the Ocean Grill for a Jazzy Surf and Turf offering of half a Maldavian lobster and a tenderloin fillet and a Paris-Texas Mixed Grill of beef, lamb and chicken. Superb.

A night-cap at the Beach Bar beckons and we sink into perfectly-shaped wicker chairs and cushions to enjoy a cocktail or two on the overwater deck which gives you a grandstand view of competitive crabs vying for the best hole in the sand as the incoming tide encroaches.

We are both beckoned by Kurumba’s Manuel De Grauwe who greeted us when we first arrived on the island. Manu, as he seems to be known by regular guests, is front office manager and speaks seven languages. He also likes dancing and invites us to gyrate with the best as Venezuelan DJ Karamel belts out her best selection of music.

With the clock now running against us, we realise there is so much more to do – and not much time to do it in. We decide next day to visit Male, the Maldives’capital and an obliging powerboat driver delivers us in double quick time.

Male, the smallest capital city in the world, is all about fish – yellow fin tuna and marling to be precise. Early records show that its industry started in cutting and processing fish for the islanders of Giraavaru, who had authority over the Male atoll.

It’s oldest building, Hukurumiskiiy, dates back to 1600. We marvel as our guide reveals that it’s made entirely of coral. We move on to the fish market which today serves about 25 boats and weather-beaten men are auctioning fish like its going out of fashion. It’s a health and safety officer’s worst nightmare, with fish lying out in the open sun everywhere. But it works. One of the sellers gives us a bit of dried fish to taste. We feign enthusiasm – and look around for a suitable receptacle to dispose of the evidence.

Tourists have been visiting Kurumba since 1972 and jolly Jason Kruse, the resort’s ebullient Australian manager, is proud to boast that many still come every year – some twice.

Manuel reveals that one pair of treasures are known to all the staff as The Gold Repeaters. Swedish couple Erik and Marita spend six weeks a year on Kurumba and have been guests for 30 years.

“They like to have a routine and when they are here the restaurant staff open up at 6.30am specially for them because they are very early risers.

“They have known Moosa since he was a trainee,” adds multi-lingual Manuel who is Belgian and spent eight of his early holiday guide years working on cruise ships.

German couple Peter and Helga are also destined for the Kurumba history books. They’ve been to the island 30 times, always stay in high season between mid-January and mid-February and are known to all the staff as Mama and Papa.

Some guests are known for more obscure reasons. Manuel tells of a Chinese gent who wanted to get some snorkeling practice in before official lessons. He was discovered early one morning lying full length in the eight foot long FISHPOND outside the Ocean Grill – snorkeling in less than three feet of water.

He however, like thousands of other guests, left Kurumba as a friend despite his unusual adventure.

The UK winter months are the Maldives’ high season and you can expect to pay premium rates on Kurumba if you visit to celebrate Christmas or the New Year. The resort ensures that the festivities are as exciting as they would be at home – just that the dark grey skies and cold days and nights are replaced with cloudless blue skies and a sizzling high 80’s temperature.

One of Kurumba’s not to be missed personalities is Charith who, always with a broad smile, spends more of his day in the sea than out of it. He guides novice snorkelers with an expertise second to none and knows all the best places to go for an underwater adventure.

And, if you’re there on Christmas Day, you might just catch him sporting a big white beard.

Like thousands before us, we left the island after seven days feeling we had found a host of new friends and, as some of our favourite staff gathered on the pontoon to wave us off, we assured them we would be back – just like Erik and Marita, The Gold Repeaters. 


FACTBOX

Luxury Holidays Direct (www.luxuryholidaysdirect.com), 020 8774 7299) are offering a 7 nights at Kurumba, Maldives from £825 (pounds) per person on breakfast basis.

Price includes accommodation in a Superior room with economy flights on Etihad Airways, speedboat transfers between airport and resort and all applicable taxes. Travel: 01 May to 24 July 2012.

Price includes offers - Stay 7 pay 6 nights and get 10% Early Bird Discount. 

All inclusive supplement £570 (pounds) per person.